From Izmir to... Datça Bikepacking
I recently planned a solo bikepacking trip with my friend from Izmir to the ancient city of Knidos, along the beautiful Aegean coast of Turkey. While the adventure didn't go exactly according to plan, it was definitely a memorable experience filled with stunning scenery, unexpected challenges, and valuable lessons learned.
The Route
Initially, We had two routes in mind:
- Option 1: Ahmetbeyli - Kuşadası - Didim/Akbük - Oren/Akbük - Muğla - Datça (Long and desired route) -> 400 km
- Option 2: Ahmetbeyli - Kuşadası - Didim/Akbük - Bodrum (ferry) - Datça (Shortcut plan B for unwanted circumstances) -> 267 km
Unfortunately, a last-minute ankle injury for my cycling buddy meant I had to tackle this adventure solo. No worries though, I was determined to make the most of it!
Day 1: Izmir to Kuşadası
On June 15th, 2024, I set off from Izmir, catching the Izban commuter train to Develi station. This, as I later discovered, was a bit of a mistake. (More on that later!)
My first leg took me towards the village of Ahmetbeyli, a pleasant 27km ride. After a quick refuel with some delicious fish, I continued on to Kuşadası, reaching a campsite by 7:10 pm. The total distance for the day was a respectable 70km, with an elevation gain of 469 meters. The weather was hot, hovering around 32 degrees Celsius, but the refreshing sea dip at the campsite was the perfect way to end the day.
To sum up I completed that day with 70 km distance, and 500 meters elevation gain.
Day 2: Flat Tire Frenzy in Kuşadası
Day two started well, but things quickly took a turn for the... deflated. After packing up camp, I noticed my back tire was flat. No problem, I thought, a quick pump and I'll be on my way. But to my surprise, the tire went flat again just minutes later. Luckily, I had a brand new spare, which I swiftly installed.
Feeling confident, I hit the road towards Didim and Akbük Bay. However, my victory was short-lived. With a loud "boom," my back tire went flat again! This had never happened to me before, and within a single day, I had already used my spare.
Determined to continue, I decided to take a taxi back to Kuşadası to find a bike repair shop. Unfortunately, most places were closed due to the holiday. Luckily, I found one open shop, but they didn't have the specific tire size (700x35) I needed. With limited options, I opted for a patch on the old tire. Since it was getting late, I decided to camp another night in Kuşadası, this time outside the campsite.
Day 3: A Hilly Climb and a Reality Check
Day three dawned with some wind, but more importantly, no flat tires (yet). After packing up, I set off, tackling a challenging 300-meter climb towards Söke. Just when I thought I was in the clear, I noticed the dreaded air loss again. Over the next 15-20 kilometers, I became a master of the roadside tire inflation, determined to reach Söke and hopefully find a new tire.
My perseverance paid off, as I managed to reach the peak of the hill, realized that my hands are more tired than my legs :D and indulge in some delicious gözleme (a Turkish flatbread with savory fillings). But guess what? Yep, you guessed it - another flat tire! This time, inflation was no use.
Feeling defeated, I contacted my cycling network in Aydın. Thankfully, after some calls and texts, I managed to locate a new 700x35 tire.
With a renewed sense of optimism, I rode downhill to Söke with completely flattened back tire, and It was quite dangerous, the bicycle was wobbling through the all downhill. And I was feeling that I am literally damaging the outer tire, but there was no other choice unfortunately.
When I reached to Soke, I met with a man from Aydın cycling network and and thanks to him, I got the brand new inner tube from him. Knowing that this tube is my last chance, I carefully changed it and continued the route.
Reaching a gas station rest stop on the Söke-Didim route, I discovered the culprit behind my tire woes: a deep scratch on the outer tire. At that moment, It was clear that the journey to Datça had to be postponed.
Lessons Learned
Looking back, I believe the constant tire issues stemmed from the lack of a downstairs elevator at Develi station. Hauling my bike up and down the stairs likely put a strain on the tires, particularly the back one.
Also riding downhill while wobbling, to Soke was the another damage cause for the outer tire.
While the trip didn't go as planned, it was definitely an adventure. I learned the importance of proper bike maintenance, the value of a good cycling network, and the beauty of adapting to changing circumstances.
Since I already had bus tickets, I decided to head to Datça anyway, just to spend some relaxing days by the sea and reflect on the experience. Here I am now, writing this blog post from my tent, with a newfound appreciation for the unexpected twists and turns that bikepacking adventures can bring.
Thinking Ahead: Datça Take Two (or further distance)
This detour may have delayed my arrival in Datça, but it certainly hasn't dampened my spirits. Next time, I'll be sure to:
- Double-check the starting station for accessibility.
- Give my bike a thorough pre-trip inspection.
- Unmounting all the bags, and releasing all the weight while carrying.
- Pack a spare inner tube (more than two!).
Thanks for joining me on this (almost) journey to Datça!
After all, the best adventures are often the ones that don't go exactly according to plan. See you on the next adventures!